I'll miss you, you dirty polluted country, you...

Take a deep breath. Let fresh air fill your lungs. Visualize the oxygen nourishing your bloodstream.

This is something we, the residents of Weifang (and a lot of China), are truly longing for. These past few weeks have been.... pretty shitty. The air pollution levels are literally off the charts. You can see smog and only smog for about 500 metres. We've started a sad little game where we guess the air quality index number without checking. It's been reading between 300 and 800 for the past few weeks. Sometimes it's better if we don't know the exact number. To give you some perspective, Victoria, BC, Canada usually reads under 5.

These pollution levels are terrible. We humans have literally created an environment that is too toxic to live in. Young children and the elderly are advised not to go outside and you're definitely not advised to do things like go on a run. It makes your throat burn, gives you a headache, and I have a suspicion that these nagging coughs and colds we all (students and staff alike) have can be attributed to living in a seriously polluted environment. It's really shitty. And you know what the worst part is, I am only here for a year and here I am whingeing away about it when so many people live here. I mean really, really, really live here; their families are here, their entire lives are here, and this is home.

I don't really want to go into a huge political/environmental/social tirade about it all mainly because China is confusing and so too is its/our position in the world. Being here is extremely eye-opening. I am not sure what it is that I am learning specifically and I definitely have less concrete ideas about what is true and not true and what are causes and what are solutions... all those things are pretty soupy in my mind right now. All that said, to be completely reductive about the complexities of the issue, I do think that we, the consumers, (yes, guilty as charged) really have to stop getting China to do our dirty work. Because dirty it is, and complicit we are. Take a look at everything you own, then take a deep breath, and then enjoy the fact that it's not made in your homeland. Oh, and "the economy" as we call it: that shit is fucked... hopefully more eloquent and nuanced details to follow.

On a more personal note, all this pollution and feeling completely trapped in a toxic environment has compelled me to think long and hard about the things that I love about being here: the things that I know are special about living in Weifang and the things that I know I am going to miss when I  leave.

1. I work with amazing people. Here we all are, going crazy and feeling trapped in a 'small' and boring city in China, but we're a supportive bunch. We work together, we drink coffee together, we share meals together, and the list goes on. I know it's pretty much a once in a lifetime experience to work with people that you absolutely depend on for almost everything. It's pretty amazing that we all help each other so much with our jobs and lives. It's definitely not everyday in Canada where you and your colleagues get together to hash out how you can teach something better or make a situation work, or listen to a story from a friend from home that no one has even met. We're a solid team and the love is there.

2. The students are awesome. I have a hunch that every teacher everywhere goes on and on about how much they love the students and how the students make it all worthwhile. To someone who hasn't experienced it, yes, this is teacher talk. And, yes, we know it's boring. What you folk need to know, is that it's true. Kids are awesome. Youth are awesome. Teenagers are awesome. The students at our school are just amazingly sweet, kind, and friendly. Yes, there are "the lazy ones," "the ones with attitude," etc. The big contrast is that here, these ones are still friendly and they still hold the door open for you, they still say hello, and they still tell you they love you in their assignments. Finally, another big difference here is that the students are a significant percentage of our social contact. We spend a lot of time with them and they spend a lot of time with us. We see them a lot more than their parents do and vice versa. So yes, there is love there too. I know I am going to miss them too.

3. Going out for dinner. The food is great, it's seriously affordable, you don't have to cook, and you don't have to clean. Awesome.

4. Buying groceries in my little neighbourhood. Fresh veggies, yogurt, and Chinese lessons.

5. Train transport. It's awesome. You can be in a totally new city, in very little time, and it's cheap.

6. Street food and local snacks. Street meat, Weifang crackers, sweet potatoes, bean drink.

7. People telling me that I am beautiful all the time. Sure it's a little fucked up because this only happens because I'm white but, I'll take what I can get.

... to be continued...

Street Snacks!

I have already raved about the beauty of the baked sweet potato. I thought I would take a moment to inform you about a couple of other amazing street snacks Weifang has to offer. One of the things that I love the most about travelling to different places is discovering a new addiction and developing cravings for things that you previously didn't know existed. I try to make it my goal to try something new every time I go grocery shopping. I think you have to make the same efforts when you see a bunch of street vendors. Otherwise you never know what you might have never discovered.

The added element of mystery in China is that even after you have tried some of the snacks, you don't know exactly what they are until you ask someone more experienced or someone who speaks enough Chinese to understand or someone who speaks enough English to explain it to you.  On the up side this makes you really trust your senses rather than logic and just enjoy or... sometimes not. 

Okay, let me introduce you to three Weifang street snack classics. 

Fresh Mooncakes:

These are little cakes that are filled with sweetened red bean stuff. The batter outside is a bit vanilla-y tasting. The other day I had one with some sort of corn filling. They are a sweet treat on your way home from an epic grocery shopping endeavour. They are always super hot and fresh and the cost 1 RMB each. Plus, you get to watch the lady skillfully make them and you get to watch the kids get super excited to eat them. Finally, like the sweet potato, they heat your hands up as well. It's a win all over situation. 

"Bean Drink:"

This is the little market area across the street from our school. We often walk over during our 2 hour lunch/nap time to pick up some fresh fruits or snacks. In the summer you can get some pretty great salads. At this time of year you can get the Weifang meat pies, steamed dumplings, deep-fried anything including the Weifang radish balls, tofu soup, onion flatbread, and our go-to "bean drink." It's a soy milk with red bean in it. It's pretty mealy and tasty and it warms you right up. This is Sinead enjoying an afternoon bean drink in front of one of the portable sweet potato ovens.

These are candied rose hips on a stick. They look a lot like baby candied apples.

I also love that they are sold on the back of a bicycle.

So, I thought, I would try one.

 I am undecided on whether or not I like them. Good thing I have bean drink.

Weekend Warriors Continued: Qingdao

Qingdao is the Victoria/Vancouver of China. It's a beautiful coastal city with a huge seawall that was once under German control. I am not sure of the exact history, but I am sure that it's pretty stunning. Especially when you have been landlocked in flat, flat, flat, and smoggy Weifang for months. Qingdao is also the city that brews one of the more palatable beers China makes and it's where the sailing portion of the Beijing Olympics were held. There are a lot of beautiful little spots, a lot more foreigners/ English speakers, a foreign foods grocery store, a few greasy spoon breakfast joints, and it's a short train ride away. It makes for the perfect weekend getaway. 

The old cathedral: 

The cathedral plaza is where newlywed couples freeze their asses off to take painfully staged wedding photos. I got colder just looking at them.

Right by the cathedral is this little cafe that feels like you are in both Pride and Prejudice and Discovery Coffee at the same time. There were old cameras, typewriters, paintings, and succulent plants all over. Victoria hipsters would lose their minds here. This is me and Amber enjoying pretentious coffees on old sofas.

Corner fruit stand. It's mandarin season and they are delicious.

These two gals busted a gut as they watched Sinead step in a pile of dog poop. Some humour is universal.

Laundry hanging out to freeze dry.

Truckloads of mandarins for sale! We spent a good chunk of the morning wandering through the street market in search of tasty snacks and yes, I admit it, photos.

This is a sort of super fried up onion flat bread. It's pretty tasty.

Meat market!

Fresh seafood.

Chinese cabbages. I still dont' understand how people can possibly make a living selling just cabbages.

The ocean! This was my first sighting of the ocean since we went camping way back in September. The tide was way out so people were collecting clams and oysters.

Did I mention that it's really, really, really cold in China right now?

Walking out to the gazebo and a lot of photo opps on the way.

Watching the fishermen try their luck.

Ahoy mateys! I am hoping this gives me some serious cred in the sailing community.

Bike polo!

And there you have it. Why Qingdao is just beautiful! Ocean, market, church, and good coffee. I'm going back next week.

shèng dàn kuài lè

It's Christmas. I am admittedly a bit homesick as it is my first Christmas that I have ever spent away from my family and not on Saltpspring. The good news is that we did manage to get the day off from work and we are celebrating in fine Weifang style. I've spent the last 2 hours or so waiting for these photos to load so I am going to let them do a lot of the explaining. I am sorry that the text is not in the right spots to explain the following photos properly. Apparently today's internet connection is not supporting formatting. 

It snowed! It's a White Christmas! To be fair, it snowed on Friday. Now it's Monday, and there's still snow. Also, we had a great snow day at school. These are the photos of my street at 5:30 am all covered in snow and peaceful. It was pretty magical. 

The next ones are the kids all excited to be outside making snow angels, snowmen, and having snowball fights. All in good cold fun.

No Christmas would be complete without making mice in a nutshell. My mom used to come into our classes in elementary school to make these with our classes. I've spent the last few months on a serious supply hunt to ensure that I could make them with my class. Oh, and I have eaten a lot of walnuts too. 

The next ones are my homeroom class gift exchange. You can see how adorable the kids are. They ordered matching reindeer antlers to wear all day. When I walked into the room in the morning, they gave me a pair to wear too. It's this kind of adorable thoughtfulness that makes me love these kids a lot even though I have never really been one to get into the Christmas spirit. Oh, and all of us teachers wore our ugly sweaters/scarves purchased from the streets of Weifang. I had to pair that reindeer scarf with everything that matched. Yes, this means pink pants in the winter. 

For Christmas, we had games and activities all day instead of classes. We started out with that gift exchange game where you steal presents from each other. I was the lucky recipient of a large teddy bear. The lucky student that got my present is now the owner of a one of a kind Ms. Temmel as Mau enamel cup. The grand finale was each class performing a Christmas carol. My class performed an adapted version of the 12 Days of Christmas. I helped them switch up the words so it was "...my teachers gave to me..." and then left them to it. You can also see that they made up a poster to hold up for each one. Unfortunately, they sprung my role of the 5th day of Christmas on me at the last minute. This meant that I was front and centre and having to sing with them. Obviously, I was rather embarrassed. But I figure it's fair game because as their teacher, I make them do all sorts of stuff they don't want to do all the time. 

Finally, we arrive on Christmas Day. Tragically and comically, we have all met at one of the many local shopping malls to set up camp at Starbucks all day to spike our drinks with Baileys and chat with our families on skype. It's very warm and Christmasy here. I think the lowest point was when we had Christmas lunch at KFC. I don't really have words to explain the series of events that have led me to eating at KFC on Christmas. The silver lining is that no one is cleaning up right now and I am spending my Christmas in good company. 

I hope you are all well and enjoying the holiday season with loved ones! Drink a rum and egg nog for me!