Wednesday, January 16, 2013

I'll miss you, you dirty polluted country, you...

Take a deep breath. Let fresh air fill your lungs. Visualize the oxygen nourishing your bloodstream.

This is something we, the residents of Weifang (and a lot of China), are truly longing for. These past few weeks have been.... pretty shitty. The air pollution levels are literally off the charts. You can see smog and only smog for about 500 metres. We've started a sad little game where we guess the air quality index number without checking. It's been reading between 300 and 800 for the past few weeks. Sometimes it's better if we don't know the exact number. To give you some perspective, Victoria, BC, Canada usually reads under 5.

These pollution levels are terrible. We humans have literally created an environment that is too toxic to live in. Young children and the elderly are advised not to go outside and you're definitely not advised to do things like go on a run. It makes your throat burn, gives you a headache, and I have a suspicion that these nagging coughs and colds we all (students and staff alike) have can be attributed to living in a seriously polluted environment. It's really shitty. And you know what the worst part is, I am only here for a year and here I am whingeing away about it when so many people live here. I mean really, really, really live here; their families are here, their entire lives are here, and this is home.

I don't really want to go into a huge political/environmental/social tirade about it all mainly because China is confusing and so too is its/our position in the world. Being here is extremely eye-opening. I am not sure what it is that I am learning specifically and I definitely have less concrete ideas about what is true and not true and what are causes and what are solutions... all those things are pretty soupy in my mind right now. All that said, to be completely reductive about the complexities of the issue, I do think that we, the consumers, (yes, guilty as charged) really have to stop getting China to do our dirty work. Because dirty it is, and complicit we are. Take a look at everything you own, then take a deep breath, and then enjoy the fact that it's not made in your homeland. Oh, and "the economy" as we call it: that shit is fucked... hopefully more eloquent and nuanced details to follow.

On a more personal note, all this pollution and feeling completely trapped in a toxic environment has compelled me to think long and hard about the things that I love about being here: the things that I know are special about living in Weifang and the things that I know I am going to miss when I  leave.

1. I work with amazing people. Here we all are, going crazy and feeling trapped in a 'small' and boring city in China, but we're a supportive bunch. We work together, we drink coffee together, we share meals together, and the list goes on. I know it's pretty much a once in a lifetime experience to work with people that you absolutely depend on for almost everything. It's pretty amazing that we all help each other so much with our jobs and lives. It's definitely not everyday in Canada where you and your colleagues get together to hash out how you can teach something better or make a situation work, or listen to a story from a friend from home that no one has even met. We're a solid team and the love is there.

2. The students are awesome. I have a hunch that every teacher everywhere goes on and on about how much they love the students and how the students make it all worthwhile. To someone who hasn't experienced it, yes, this is teacher talk. And, yes, we know it's boring. What you folk need to know, is that it's true. Kids are awesome. Youth are awesome. Teenagers are awesome. The students at our school are just amazingly sweet, kind, and friendly. Yes, there are "the lazy ones," "the ones with attitude," etc. The big contrast is that here, these ones are still friendly and they still hold the door open for you, they still say hello, and they still tell you they love you in their assignments. Finally, another big difference here is that the students are a significant percentage of our social contact. We spend a lot of time with them and they spend a lot of time with us. We see them a lot more than their parents do and vice versa. So yes, there is love there too. I know I am going to miss them too.

3. Going out for dinner. The food is great, it's seriously affordable, you don't have to cook, and you don't have to clean. Awesome.

4. Buying groceries in my little neighbourhood. Fresh veggies, yogurt, and Chinese lessons.

5. Train transport. It's awesome. You can be in a totally new city, in very little time, and it's cheap.

6. Street food and local snacks. Street meat, Weifang crackers, sweet potatoes, bean drink.

7. People telling me that I am beautiful all the time. Sure it's a little fucked up because this only happens because I'm white but, I'll take what I can get.

... to be continued...